Be cautious not to drag furniture across wood floors. Heavy furniture may scuff the hardwood and leave marks.
You may find gaps or gouges in the wood which need to be filled. Apply wood putty according to the manufacturer’s instructions. Allow it to dry thoroughly before proceeding with your finishing. You should also protect yourself from sawdust and stain fumes by wearing a respirator.
You can rent a drum sander from any equipment rental facility. Consider renting a floor sander from a local hardware store; consider borrowing a sander from a friend or neighbor. Get the 180-grit pads (180 grits per inch), if you have a choice. If you are re-finishing old floors, start with the 80 grit pads, and be thorough.
Start with 20- to 60-grit sandpaper. You will end the project with sandpaper between 80- and 120-grit. [5] X Expert Source Crystal ChadwickLicensed General Contractor Expert Interview. 16 March 2021. Practice sanding an area that won’t be visible when the furniture is replaced. This will avoid making any noticeable errors.
Sanding by machine requires that the machine sands with the grain of the wood. Sanding on the bias will destroy the wood’s appearance, and you may find yourself shopping for carpet. Finish up the edges with a handheld power sander. Use a smaller, handheld sander to tidy up the areas that the electric sander might have missed–especially the edges of the room, or any part of the floor that’s at all obstructed.
Depending on the brand, you will need 1–2 gallons (3. 8–7. 6 L) of stain for an average floor. If you are attempting this for the first time, get a water-based stain: it is much easier to work with. Get a staining pad head with a detachable extension. The cheapest way is to get the replaceable pads. If you’re using a semi-transparent stain, be sure to get the soft white fiber for staining, as the paint-specific pads will apply all but the solid color stain unevenly. A darker stain color can help cover up stains like dog urine that have seeped into the wood and won’t come out with sanding.
Apply a small amount of stain to a small test area. The color may vary considerably from the display at the store. Be sure to stir the stain regularly during the application process. Avoid leaving a stain or water spill on the wood: it will stain and rot if left unattended.
The more coats you add, the darker the finish will be. [11] X Expert Source Crystal ChadwickLicensed General Contractor Expert Interview. 16 March 2021.
Try to stick to the base you used for the floor: if you chose a water-based stain, then be sure to use a water-based polyurethane clear-coat. Once you’ve applied the polyurethane coat, do not walk on the floor for 24 hours (or as long as the urethane packaging says that it needs to dry). If you walk on the floor before the coat is completely dry, you might smudge the gloss and leave unsightly blemishes across your hardwood. Do not steam-mop the floor for at least a month after finishing.
Wax and buff your floor three or four times to build up plenty of protective layers. Set aside at least a full day for this process, as it can become very time-intensive. Make sure to clear the floor of all furniture, clutter, and dust before you begin. Consider mopping the floor or wiping it clean with a damp towel beforehand.
If the floor finished, check whether it is dirty. If the existing top layer is scratched, but not dirty, you can simply apply a new coating of wax on top of the old layer. If the finished floor is dirty, you will need to thoroughly buff the floor before you apply a new coating. Wax soaks into the wood, so it is hard to fully remove. This makes the floor unsuitable for a synthetic finish, unless you hire a professional to strip the wax fully. You can easily apply new wax after you strip the floor.
If your first layer is too thick, the whole process could fail to set properly. Be careful not to drip excess wax onto the floor. Make sure that the mop is damp, but not soaked. Don’t apply too many coats. Stop if the wax starts turning yellow. Wash all tools immediately when you are done waxing. If you let the wax dry, it will be difficult or nearly impossible to remove.
Make sure that you’ve got an even coating, and that you allow it to “set” before you move on to buffing. Make sure that your wax needs to be buffed. Many waxes are no-buff, and they will remain glossy with no further effort. Avoid stepping or placing anything onto the final coat for at least eight hours. Shut the door of the waxed room so that children, pets, and dirt cannot enter.
Go over the entire floor three or four times, making sure to get as much wax as possible clear of the wood. Your goal here is to ensure that there’s no excess wax on the floor, and that the wax that’s there is sealing the wood. You can buff a floor whether or not you have stained it. If you have finished a floor by staining it, buffing ensures that you won’t have air bubbles in the finish, and thus that the floor will last longer.
